Jewelry Types

• Pendants
• Bracelets
• Necklaces
• Rings
• For Her
• Misc
• Chains
• Chain holders
• Lighters
• Earrings
• Leather Braid
• Key Rings
• Handphone Straps
• Leather Straps
• Money clips
• Wallets
• Belts
• Caps
• Pens
• Watches
• Cigarette Cases
• Sunglasses
• Whistle
• Finger Armor Rings

Jewelry Styles

• Skulls & Skeletons
• Swords
• Crosses
• Fleur-De-Lis
• Dog Tag
• Alphabets
• Zodiac Signs
• Floral
• Flowers
• Horns & Claws
• Hearts
• Spiders
• Kisses
• Animals
• Angels
• Crowns
• Dark Curves
• Roman
• Bells
• White Silver

Sterling Silver 101: The comprehensive guide

What is Sterling Silver

Fine silver (99.9% pure) like most precious metals, is easily bent and deformed and unsuitable in the manufacture of jewelry & other accessories. Bracelets, rings, dog tags and other types of silver jewelry cannot effectively be manufactured from pure silver in the absence of alloy metal impurities to strengthen its atomic structure. To utilize silver as a commercially viable metal, it is alloyed with copper to increase its hardness. Due to the similar natural appearances of both metals, the alloying process can be carried out without materially affecting the stretchability and outward beauty of the precious metal. However, as the degree of purity of silver decreases within the alloy, the problem of rusting arises, giving rise to the importance of finding an efficient equilibrium balance between the percentage by mass content of Silver and the cheaper metal (whether Aluminum, Copper, Steel or Brass)  used in the alloy mix.

The  solution, as discovered by the world’s most brilliant chemists, is sterling silver: an alloy of silver containing 92.5% by mass of silver and 7.5% by mass of other metals, usually Copper, Steel or Brass. The sterling silver standard has a minimum purity level of 925 (ie: 92.5% purity). Since the percentage purity of sterling silver is stringently maintained, sterling silver is the most suitable material for use in the manufacture of jewelry and high grade luxury cutlery used by royalty.

Chemically, silver is not very reactive—it does not react readily with oxygen or water at ordinary temperature, and so does not readily form the problematic silver oxide layer  which appears as a dull, powdery white coating on the surface of pure silver. However, sterling silver is not a compound, and other metals in the alloy, usually copper, may react with oxygen in the air, tarnishing the overall appearance of the sterling silver alloy. The good news, however, is that tarnish is easily reversible by polishing: a process which chemically dissolves and removes the exterior coat of CuO obscuring the illustrious sheen of the underlying alloy. The simple reversibility of the tarnish  has  resulting in 925 sterling silver becoming the industrial benchmark of consumer choice in jewelry craftsmanship.

Sterling Silver’s beauty increases with use, which induces a patina layer to form. Plated silver is silver that has been electroplated over another metal. Corrosion occurs more quickly in damp and foggy weather, but is inevitable in any climate. Sterling silver should ideally be stored in treated paper or cloth, or plastic film.

The effort and cost which you incur in cleaning your sterling silver should be determined firstly by the value placed on it, whether monetary or sentimental, and secondly, the intricacy or depth of the pattern. Silver with deeply engraved designs that are enhanced by an oxide or French gray finish should be hand polished with a high quality silver cream or polish.

Hand rubbing develops a patina layer which adds to its beauty. Ornamental silver pieces which have been lacquered must be washed in lukewarm water instead of hot water , as hot water could remove the lacquer. Polishing silver while wearing rubber gloves promotes tarnish. Don’t do it! Instead, choose plastic or cotton gloves.

Silver has enemies. Rubber severely affects silver. The damage can become so serious that only a silversmith can repair the damage, albeit with a severe wasteful loss of silver mass. Raised designs are beyond help, and will be lost permanently.  Storage chests with rubber seals, rubber floor coverings and rubber bands are strict no-nos.

Other deadly enemies of silver include table salt, olives, salad dressing, eggs, vinegar and fruit juices. Essentially anything which contains food acids. If you treasure your cutlery, serve even mildly acidic foods in china or glass containers rather than your precious silver tableware. Although flowers and fruit really do look lovely in silver containers, the  carbonic acids produced as they decay can etch the containers and cause irreversible damage. If you really want to use silver containers, use glass liners.

Baking Soda and Toothpaste: Using toothpaste, coat the silver layer with toothpaste, then run it under lukewarm water, work it into a foam, and rinse it off. For hard stains or intricate grooves unreachable by hand, use an old soft-bristled toothbrush.

For Baking Soda, mix a paste of baking soda and water. Rub, rinse off, and polish dry with a soft cloth preferably cotton. To remove rust from silverware, place some grains of baking soda on a wet cloth and rub down the silverware until rust disappears. Rinse and dry well.